After three days in Halifax it was time to push on down the Western Shore of Nova Scotia. We now had a dead line to meet. I’ve always heard talk of how sailing with dead lines is drag on the overall experience and can even be dangerous. Well, it’s true. (more…)
Up, down, up, down… this was how we spent 10 hours on August 29th running downwind with the offshoots from hurricane Cristobal. It was our best day yet, and not even uncomfortable, making 74 nautical miles in just over 10 hours. (more…)
We bid farewell to Newfoundland in the early morning twilight on August 22nd, a day shy of a month since we’d arrived. We took off unsure exactly what our destination would be but we did well and with lovely weather decided to continue 75 Nmi south to Ingonish, having previously visited the protected harbour on our way north. (more…)
When we departed White Point in northern Cape Breton we were headed to Codroy, Nfld. We thought the weather sounded great, 15 to 20 knots of nice southwesterly wind. But we’re learning (the hard way) that Environment Canada is a little too conservative for their wind reports to be practical. We got up at 3:30 am, and were off by 4 am for the 75 nautical mile crossing. With only 5 knots of wind, and big rolling seas coming east from the St. Lawrence and west from the Atlantic, we were going nowhere fast. By 11 am we were only 20 miles into our trip. After some hemming-and-hawing we made our decision to head for Port-Aux-Basques, a closer destination on the south coast. (more…)
Our last night in the Bras d’Or Lakes was spent in Otter Harbor, a common place to anchor and wait for the proper tide before running out the narrows, where the current can reach up to 8 knots. After two weeks in the lakes it was refreshing to once again see the unbroken horizon of the sea and to feel that we on our way. (more…)
We had great wind and were having a lovely sail into Baddeck, deciding to burn by the harbour before dropping the sails. Unfortunately as we entered the only channel, between docks and a mooring field, a passing group of site-seeing kayakers were spread across the channel. They were now stopped, and taking photos of us… I’m not sure if they realize that we couldn’t just stop, and had very little room to maneuver, but luckily their guide got them moving again and all was fine. (more…)
The Bras D’or Lakes, Nova Scotia, referred to as “Canada’s Largest Inland Sea” were a pleasure to sail around. We spent almost two weeks enjoying nice weather, flat water, and the cruising life. The danger in these lakes is the phenomenon of lathargia; where days somehow don’t start until noon and sometimes you forget to go sailing… (more…)
We had our first bout with the true Nova Scotia Fog as Jess described upon leaving the Liscomb river, thick as heavy rain clouds and just as wet. After 6 hours of it we ran for Fisherman’s Harbor, 90 odd miles along the Eastern shore from Halifax. It had been an exhausting day; glued to the radar we ran deep down wind under fore sail and jib alone in a steep 6’ sea and a steady 20-25 knots. Fisherman’s Harbor is wide and clear of hazards and very easy to enter from seaward. Once inside the main bay, the harbor proper is made up of a government wharf that is well protected by a small island and offers excellent holding in sticky mud. The pilot guide recommended anchoring on a line between the government wharf and the green light on the western shore of the island. What it should say is anchor “anywhere in the bay avoiding the power line that runs directly between the wharf and the light on the island!“ The following morning I had a hell of a time pulling up our anchor as I was also dragging a heavy inch and half diameter power cable out of the mud. Thank god the insulation wasn’t breached or I would have been smoked mackerel! (more…)
I recently mentioned to Matt that I think the idea of fog on the Atlantic coast of Nova Scotia was a hoax, a big conspiracy to keep this wonderful cruising ground all to themselves and the brave few who decided to venture up despite warnings.
Well, I definitely jinxed us because on the 16th day of the trip (July 2nd) we found out what it is all about. (more…)
Eastershore: Halifax to Liscomb River
With Ethan left on his own adventures in Nova Scotia, Matt and I left Halifax on June 28th, a beautiful day, and made our way approximately 40 nm north to Owls Head bay where we found good holding and dark coke coloured water.
I had forgotten how much I really enjoyed Halifax until on June 24th we sailed down the peninsula on which the city sits, and many memories of my four years of university there came flooding back to me. I had often wandered the waterfront while living there and thought of how much I would like to be on a sailboat out in the harbour. I left in 2008, and so six years later finally got to sail in. (more…)
Well our last 12 hours of sailing was an adventure. I was asked by the Lunenburg Librarian (not a sailor) if I was afraid for my life when I told her we arrived on Wednesday by sailboat… Well, I answered, not really afraid I would say… A little nervous I suppose. (more…)
WELCOME! The following map illustrates our sailing plans for June to October, 2014. We hope you will follow our posts as we make our way around the Canadian Maritimes over the summer and Maine in the early fall.