We didn’t tarry long in Grand Bruit but set out the following morning for the only remaining out port on the south coast we had yet to visit, La Poile. I’m not sure if it was the disappointment of finding Grand Bruit empty or if I was just worn down, but I hardly set foot in La Poile. We tied up on the far side of the ferry wharf, chatted with the locals and watched the comings and goings on the waterfront. We stayed only one night and set out the following morning without a fixed destination, only intending to work our way west. We had read about Petites, a community that was resettled in 2003, so after only 15 Nmi we decided to motor in a take a look. (more…)
Over a year ago when Jessica and I first began talking about taking Heart’s Desire up to Newfoundland we thought of Gros Morne National park, probably the most well know fjord in Newfoundland, if not in North America. I’ve never been there, but it’s supposed to be extraordinary. It’s the fjord whose photo graces the travel brochures of Newfoundland. It’s the Fjord that everyone who comes to Newfoundland strives to see, and are able to get to. That “able to” being key. I”m sure that Gros Morne lives up to it’s reputation, and I look forward to going there some day, but if you want fjords, I mean really want fjords, then you must go to the South Coast, but you’ll have to find your own way there. (more…)
At the dock in Port-Aux-Basques a worker told us “ Newfoundlanders don’t burn, we rust.” And, despite the seemingly impenetrable layer in the sky above us we did find ourselves with a fog-burn by the end of the day, entering the minuscule opening into Burgeo harbour. (more…)
Grand Bruit or “Grand Brute” in Newfoundland speak, is a beautiful town named for the large waterfall that cascades through the center. Most places along the South Coast have french names with Anglicized pronunciations. Some places have also informally reverted to the spellings indicated on the 1790’s charts made by James Cook, who could not spell in French, on his expedition along this coast. (more…)
We spent our first morning (July 24th) in Newfoundland strolling around Port-Aux-Basques and debating whether to stay another night, in the hopes that the fog would lift for our trip down the coast. At 1pm with our minds made, as the fog may never leave, we cast off our lines and alerted the Port-Aux-Basques traffic authority we were on our way. They replied back that there was no traffic within 5 miles of the harbour. Our way was clear! (more…)
I’m not sure that I have the literary ability to convey the majesty of place in which I am writing this. I stop to listen and hear the song of birds echoing off tree lined walls of granite, only a stones throw away, rising up to disappear in the fog on either side of us. I can hear a waterfall, but it is hidden in the woods somewhere near. Drips of fog fall from the rig to patter gently upon the deck, lulling the mind into a state of peace. The rest is silence broken occasionally by the warbling cry of a loon.
Southeast Arm of Grey River fjord, Newfoundland.
When we departed White Point in northern Cape Breton we were headed to Codroy, Nfld. We thought the weather sounded great, 15 to 20 knots of nice southwesterly wind. But we’re learning (the hard way) that Environment Canada is a little too conservative for their wind reports to be practical. We got up at 3:30 am, and were off by 4 am for the 75 nautical mile crossing. With only 5 knots of wind, and big rolling seas coming east from the St. Lawrence and west from the Atlantic, we were going nowhere fast. By 11 am we were only 20 miles into our trip. After some hemming-and-hawing we made our decision to head for Port-Aux-Basques, a closer destination on the south coast. (more…)
We had great wind and were having a lovely sail into Baddeck, deciding to burn by the harbour before dropping the sails. Unfortunately as we entered the only channel, between docks and a mooring field, a passing group of site-seeing kayakers were spread across the channel. They were now stopped, and taking photos of us… I’m not sure if they realize that we couldn’t just stop, and had very little room to maneuver, but luckily their guide got them moving again and all was fine. (more…)
We have been a little behind at putting up posts recently so here is a photo blog of our 10 days in the Bras D’Or Lakes, Nova Scotia! More to come. (more…)
I recently mentioned to Matt that I think the idea of fog on the Atlantic coast of Nova Scotia was a hoax, a big conspiracy to keep this wonderful cruising ground all to themselves and the brave few who decided to venture up despite warnings.
Well, I definitely jinxed us because on the 16th day of the trip (July 2nd) we found out what it is all about. (more…)
A group of 10 or so dolphins joined the boat for almost half an hour playing at the bow and jumping around beside the boat as we sailed along
Eastershore: Halifax to Liscomb River
With Ethan left on his own adventures in Nova Scotia, Matt and I left Halifax on June 28th, a beautiful day, and made our way approximately 40 nm north to Owls Head bay where we found good holding and dark coke coloured water.
Where to begin? This is my first attempt at writing a blog post. In fact it’s my first attempt at writing, other than the chicken scratch time-cards I fill out for Michelle at Gannon and Benjamin, that I’ve undertaken in years! At lest four years to be exact, as that is when I bought Heart’s Desire, and the point at which everything in my life other than boat work ceased to be. Almost everything… So get on with it. We have now been in Nova since June 18th and have been bit lax about keep up this blog so I’ll be flexing what brain cells I can to remember back some 150 Nautical miles to our time in Lunenburg, and our introduction to cruising in Nova Scotia. It couldn’t have been better.
In Lunenburg, Heart’s Desire, and (sailing) Fo’get About It.
Well our last 12 hours of sailing was an adventure. I was asked by the Lunenburg Librarian (not a sailor) if I was afraid for my life when I told her we arrived on Wednesday by sailboat… Well, I answered, not really afraid I would say… A little nervous I suppose. (more…)
After a great departure party at Gannon & Benjamin and a day of running around we were finally ready to go on Sunday June 15th. Matt dove in on Saturday to do a final cleaning of our propeller for the summer, as water is a lot warmer in Vineyard Haven than where we’re headed! (more…)
WELCOME! The following map illustrates our sailing plans for June to October, 2014. We hope you will follow our posts as we make our way around the Canadian Maritimes over the summer and Maine in the early fall.
Travel plans for summer 2014. Depending on timing and how things are going the most northern part of the trip has a couple options. We plan to go strait from Vineyard Haven, on Martha’s Vineyard, MA, to Lunenburg, NS. After that we will hop the coast into the Bras D’or Lakes, NS, exit to the north and cross the Cabot Strait to Newfoundland. We will travel up the west coast to Gros Morne National Park and assess the situation from there. We plan to try to go to the Iles-de-la-Madeleine, QC on our way south. We will go through the Canso Canal and hop the coast back down to the Yarmouth area. Across the Bay of Fundy we hope to meet with friends and family in northern Maine then continue home to Martha’s Vineyard by mid October.
Slowly Sailing Somewhere 